Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts

Friday, January 26, 2018

Sewing Chairs

Back in April, I saw some great chairs at the Channahon Quilt Show (bottom 10 pictures on the post).  I figured that I could recover a couple chairs myself.  I'd just recovered a sewing machine chair a few weeks before. This summer, I bought 4 folding chairs just for this project.  I've recovered 2 of these chairs.  The other 2 chairs will just have to wait their turn to get recovered.  I've written a tutorial on how to recover these chairs.

First, you need to get chairs that the chair pads screw onto the chairs. 
4 screws hold the top chair pad to the frame
4 screws hold the bottom chair pad to the frame

I got these chairs at the local Meijer grocery store when they were on sale.  They were about $15 per chair. 

The fabric is all from my stash.  I have a nice stash of 'sewing themed' fabrics that I'm finally starting to use.  I used fusible fleece as my backing for these.  I didn't want to add a 3rd layer, since the screws are short, and too many layers would make it hard to screw the chair pads back on the chairs. 

First, I took the chair pads off.  I labeled the direction on the bottom of the chair pad so that I could get it back on correctly.  I then cut some fusible larger than the chair pad.
fusible fleece as backing for chair pad

I then fused the fleece onto the back of the fabric I wanted to use.  Make sure it lines up nicely.  I then quilted thru the layers.  I don't free motion quilt, but, this would have been a great 'practice' for free motion quilting (or ruler quilting).  I was in a hurry, so, I just did straight line quilting on one chair fabric, and cross hatch quilting on the other chair fabric.  You can't see the quilting from the front in the pictures, so, I took a picture from the back of one.  I didn't really want my stitching to show, so, I used white thread in the white areas and black thread in the black areas.
straight line quilting from the back

I used part of a panel for one chair, and cross hatch quilted it.  I had a tiny bit of coordinating fabric to use for the top of the chair.
panel section, quilted

coordinating fabric for the top of the chair

Ok, that was the easy part.  Now for the harder part, attaching the fabric to the chair pads.  You will need a stapler and a hammer.  I had to go buy the correct size staples.  I used 1/4" staples.  Anything longer might poke thru when the chair is sat on.  Ouch!  The hammer was used to finish driving the staples in.  No matter how hard I pressed down, the staples didn't go all the way in, so, I hammered them the rest of the way in.  Do this on a firm surface (I was bad, and used my cutting table). 

Start by lining up the chair pad against the back of the quilted fabric.
chair pad lined up against back of quilted fabric

On one chair, I used fabric with stripes, so, it helped to get the fabric lined up nicely.  First, fold the fabric back over the bottom of the chair pad, and staple one side, in the middle.  Then do the top, then both sides.  Turn the chair pad over to make sure everything is lined up nicely before you start putting in more staples.  *Tip:  Leave the screws in the screw holes so that you can find them easily, and so that you don't accidentally staple into the screw holes.  Yes, you will be covering up the screw holes when you staple the fabric down. 

When you are sure everything is lined up nicely, then finish stapling all 4 sides, leaving the corners till the end.  You will need to 'pleat' the corners in a few places, to get them to look nice.  Here are the backs of the chair pads.
pleated corners are stapled down

some of my pleating on the corner
The bottom chair pads are the easy part.  That is why you want to do them first.  You can learn on the bottom, easy part. 

Now, to do the harder part, the top chair pad.  With the curves, you need to go slower, and be more careful.  It isn't hard, it just takes more care.

First, line up the quilted fabric against the front of the chair pad (back).
lined up, ready to start stapling 

Put one staple along the top edge, in the center.  Then put one staple along the bottom edge, in the center.  Turn over to make sure the fabric lines up like you want it to. 

Next, put a staple along the bottom, one on each side of the staple in the middle.  Now do the same with the top edge. 

Now you need to put one staple along the curves on the side, slightly stretching the fabric as you go.  Do the same with the other side.  Turn over and check, to make sure it looks good. 

*Tip:  I put 2 staples in each place, one slightly lower than the other, on all the chair pads, to secure the fabric well.  

As you go along the curves, you will need to 'pleat' the fabric, and staple each pleat.
pleated the edges along the curves

up close of the pleats along the edges

I stapled close to the edge of all the chair pads.  This was only a problem in one area, the bottom of the back chair pad.  You can see some of the staples from the back of the chair. 
one staple peeking out after the chair back is attached 
Personally, this doesn't bother me, since no one is going to be looking at this part of the chair.  They will only be looking at the chairs from the front of the chair. 

One more thing before you attach the pads to the chairs.  Remember those screws you left in the chair pads?  Well, now is when you need to cut away the fabric around those screws.  You can 'feel' for the screws, then carefully cut around the screws to expose them.  Using sharp, pointed scissors makes this much easier.  Keep trimming until the entire screw is showing. 
showing fabric cut around the screw

Remove the screws, and line up the holes with the holes in the chair.  Make sure your chair pad is going the correct direction.  Put the screws back, thru the chair screw holes.  *You will need to press hard to the chair pad, to get the screw to engage.  Do NOT tighten the screws until all the screws are attached (in case you need to adjust the chair pad).  When all the screws are attached, tighten all the screws.  Do this with both chair pads (bottom and back).  Woohoo!  You are DONE! 

This is the chair I finished last night.



up close of the chair pads

And here is the chair that I finished this morning.


up close of chair pads

*  You can also paint the chair to match the fabrics, if you'd like.  I had thought of this, but, since it is winter (way too cold to be outside), and I was in a rush, I didn't do this.  These fabrics look nice with this color paint.  Depending on the fabrics I pick for the other 2 chairs, I might spray paint them before recovering them.  Just take the chair pads off, get some spray paint you like, and spray the chairs.  It would probably take 2-3 coats to cover everything. 

These chairs will be in my vintage sewing machine booth, at my quilt guild's quilt show in March.

March 10 & 11, 2018
Richland Grade School
1919 Caton Farm Road
Crest Hill, IL 60403


Come visit me (and the chairs) at the quilt show!  I'll have some 'wheelies' on these chairs, too. 

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Pin Cushion Thread Catcher Tutorial

pin cushion thread catcher

Usually, when I make these, I make several at at time.  These are very popular at my Family Reunions, with all the stitchers.

Supplies Needed:
1 Fat Quarter for Thread Caddy
1 Fat Quarter for Pin Cushion
1-2 cups Play Sand or Crushed Walnut Shells
19"-20" Package Strapping
Non-Slip Shelf Liner

Cutting Directions:
Thread Catcher Fabric - cut 2 - 9"x18" pieces
Pin Cushion Fabric - cut 2 - 6"x8" pieces, cut 1 - 4"x7" piece for straps
Non-Slip Shelf Liner - cut 1 - 3.5"x6" piece

USE 1/4" SEAMS!

Walnut Shells
 You can get this at pet stores. 

Package Strapping
Ask at stores if they have any strapping that they haven't thrown away yet.  I usually get mine at Sams, or, hubby brings it home from the office.









Strap Construction:
Fold 4"x7" strap fabric, right sides together, and stitch on the 7" side.

stitch along the 7" side
Turn right side out and press seam along the center.
Cut strap in half, creating two 3.5" straps.  Lay aside.
cut in half
Pin Cushion and Lining Construction:
Layer lining fabric to wrong side of the pin cushion fabric (I use the same color fabric for both parts).
lining fabric against wrong side of pin cushion fabric

Place shelf liner along one 6" end of pin cushion fabric. Place both straps, seam side against top of shelf liner, about 1" from the edges, and baste.
pin shelf liner & straps (seams against shelf liner)

baste along edge (less than 1/4")

Fold straps in half and pin (see picture below).  This will keep them out of the way when you zig zag stitch the other end of the shelf liner to the pin cushion fabric (I use a straight stitch machine, so, I stitch 2 lines of stitching instead of using a zig zag).
Pin shelf liner to fabric in several places, since the shelf liner will want to 'walk' with your sewing foot. *(You can also put a piece of paper over the shelf liner, making sure to tear it off after you have stitched the end.  The paper will only tear easily if you straight stitch, not zig zag).  **Make your stitch length small so that the paper tears away easily.
pin well, since the shelf liner 'grabs' your sewing foot

stitch close to edge of shelf liner

**you can use paper along the edge, so that the shelf liner doesn't 'grip' your sewing foot
Fold pin cushion fabric, right sides together, to measure 4"x6".  The straps will be on the inside.
Sew all three sides, leaving a 3" opening along one 4" side.  This is where you will place the sand at the very end of constructing your project.
leave a 3" opening on the side
Turn right side out.  Set aside.
top of finished pin cushion

bottom of pin cushion
Thread Catcher Construction:
Fold one 9"x18" piece of bag fabric, right sides together, and stitch along the 9" side, creating a tube. 
stitch along 9" side
Press and refold so seam is centered along the back.
seam centered along the back
Sew along the bottom edge.

sew along bottom edge
Square the bottom by bringing the bottom up to the side seam, creating a triangle.  Mark seam line.
bring bottom up to the side seam

measure 1.5" from the point, mark the line to stitch
 
stitch along line
Trim to 1/4".

trim to 1/4"
Repeat with the other side.
bottom of bag with boxed ends

turn right side out.
Repeat with the bag lining, leaving a 4" opening along the center of the long seam.
leave 4" opening in center of seam


Pin right sides of straps to right side of lining, along the back.  Baste.
right side of straps against right side of lining (piece with open seam)

baste (less than 1/4" from edge)
Place outer fabric inside lining, right sides together, matching and pinning raw edges.  Sew.
pin right sides together, lining up seams

pin well

sew

sewn seam
Turn through opening in lining.  Press seam.
press seam

press seam
Insert package strapping.
insert strapping thru unstitched seam

Pin strapping WELL!
pin well before sewing
Sew as close to the edge of the strapping as you can, starting and stopping at the back seam, by the straps.
stitch close to strapping
Stitch lining closed by hand.

Fill pin cushion with sand.  Sew the opening closed by hand, using small stitches.
*I find it easier to fill if I use a funnel.

You've finished your pin cushion thread catcher.  Enjoy!
finished pin cushion thread catcher

 **I use a straight stitch machine.  I have a 1/4" foot  for my machine.

regular foot, and 1/4" foot
I switch between both feet for this project.  If you look closely at the pictures, you can tell which foot I'm using.  The regular foot is great for basting close to the edge (less than 1/4") and for stitching close to the strapping.


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